Frequently Asked Questions

Fixr lists 1,000 square feet at about $5,000 to $12,500 installed, and HomeGuide's range for the same area is $10,000 to $25,000. The spread comes from the turf product, how much old grass and soil must be removed, drainage work and the shape of the area. We give a written price after measuring.

It works well when the base drains properly and the area suits it. Orlando gets about 51 inches of rain a year, mostly in summer storms, so a porous, compacted base is essential. Turf also gets much hotter than live grass in full sun, so shade and product choice matter for play areas and pets.

We remove the existing grass and roots, cap sprinkler heads in the area, grade the soil so water flows away from the house, add a weed barrier where it fits, then spread and compact a crushed-stone base, usually around 3 to 4 inches deep. Turf is laid on that base, seamed, fastened at the edges and filled with infill.

There is no single answer, but look for UV-stabilized blades, lighter or multi-tone colors, a fully permeable backing and a non-rubber infill. Some products and infills are sold as cooler, but in direct Florida sun all synthetic turf gets hot. Shade and a quick hose rinse lower the surface temperature more than any product claim.

Florida's 2025 law limits cities and counties, not HOAs. Your HOA documents still apply, though Section 720.3045 bars HOAs from restricting items, artificial turf included, that cannot be seen from the frontage, an adjacent parcel, common areas or a community golf course, which often includes fenced backyards. For front yards, plan on an architectural review; we can supply product specs and a layout.

Under Section 125.572(3), local governments cannot prohibit synthetic turf on single-family lots of one acre or less that meets the state's minimum standards. DEP does not issue permits for turf; its FAQ says permitting is left to local governments, so the city or county may still have a process. Commercial properties, condos, duplexes and larger lots are outside the state rule, so we check local requirements before any job.

Not when it is installed correctly. Turf backing is perforated or fully permeable, and the crushed-stone base lets water pass into the sandy soil below. Standing water on turf usually means a poor grade or a compacted, non-porous base, which is why grading is part of every job we do.

A typical residential yard takes one to three days once work starts, depending on size, how much soil comes out and access for equipment. Rain can push the base work back a day, since we do not compact a saturated base.

Lifespan depends on the product, UV exposure and traffic. Strong sun breaks down blades over time, so UV-stabilized products and a good base matter. Check the manufacturer's warranty terms for the specific product, since they vary.

It should not. Grass and roots left underneath decompose, settle and leave soft, uneven spots, and weeds can come up through seams and drainage holes. We remove the old lawn first.

Not to keep it green. A hose rinse helps cool the surface on hot days, wash off pollen and dust, and clean pet areas. That is far less water than a lawn needs under the district's watering schedule.

It depends on your association's documents. Florida's 2025 law limits cities and counties, not HOAs. Many associations approve turf that meets their color and quality rules, and we can provide specs and a layout for the application.

It can if urine cannot drain or is never rinsed. A fully permeable backing, a porous base and odor-control infill reduce it. Regular hose rinsing, especially in dry spells, and an enzyme cleaner when needed keep it in check.

In direct summer sun it can be. Turf surface temperatures far above air temperature have been measured. Shade, lighter turf colors and hosing the area down before dogs go out all help. Shaded runs are the easiest fit.

It is much harder than digging through grass. Turf laid on a compacted stone base and fastened tightly at the edges gives dogs little to grab. Persistent diggers may still worry an edge, so we secure borders along fence lines carefully.

DEP's rulemaking materials for Florida's residential turf standards say no rubber infill, and we do not use it. For pets, zeolite and coated sand products are common because they help manage ammonia odor. We go over the options and their upkeep at the estimate.

HomeAdvisor's 2026 figures average about $4,300, with a typical range of $3,500 to $9,000. Small greens cost more per square foot, about $25 to $40, than large ones. Contours, cups, fringe and chipping areas all affect the price.

It depends on your yard and what you want to practice. A few hundred square feet with three cups covers most short putting. Longer lag putts and chipping need more room. We sketch options during the estimate.

Yes, if the base is built porous and graded properly. Putting turf has a permeable backing, and the stone base lets water pass through. A green should be playable shortly after a typical afternoon storm.

Somewhat. The turf product sets the basic speed, and the amount of sand infill and how it is brushed changes it. We set it at installation and explain how to adjust it.

Turf alone offers little cushioning. Installed over a foam pad matched to the equipment's fall height, it provides a cushioned surface. Ask the play set maker for its fall height and we will match the pad.

In direct summer sun it can get very hot, well above air temperature. Shade, lighter turf and a hose rinse before play make a real difference. We help you choose a spot and plan shade.

It does not wash out in storms, does not need topping up and stays clean. Mulch costs less to start and stays cooler in sun. Turf with a pad usually wins for low upkeep and a tidy yard.

Yes. We can cut around the legs or move the set during installation and reset it on the finished surface. Removing it usually gives a cleaner result.

Possibly. Florida's 2025 limits on local rules cover single-family homes on lots of one acre or less, and DEP says commercial properties are outside that rule. We check local site and stormwater requirements before quoting.

Often, yes. It stays green without irrigation or mowing between guests and does not turn to mud in storms. Plan for shade or a hose rinse in summer, since turf gets hot in full sun.

Yes, with a drainage mat or pad instead of a stone base so water reaches the existing drains. Weight, access and the roof membrane all need checking first.

We use a fully permeable backing, a porous base where possible and odor-control infill, and we give property staff a simple rinse and cleaning routine.

Usually the grade is flat or dished, the base is too dense to drain, or the backing is clogged. We lift the turf, check the base and correct the grade so water passes through.

Yes. We inspect it, find the cause of the problem and quote the repair or replacement. Having the product name helps if we need to match turf for a patch.

Rinse often and use an enzyme cleaner. If odor persists, urine is likely trapped in the base or backing; changing the infill or rebuilding the base under the pet area fixes it.

Repair if the problem is local and the turf is in good shape. Replace if the blades are brittle, faded or matted throughout, or the base is failing in many places. We give you both prices when it is close.